Cream-Filled Wafer Rolls Once a Year
This saying used to circulate in Gdansk, referring to the iconic cream-filled wafer rolls sold from a tiny window on Długi Targ. Why "once a year"? Because they were a special treat—both festive and a must-have on any trip to Gdansk. Sadly, the memory of this place now lives only in the recollections of those who visited in the 1970s and 80s, as the shop was closed by the end of that era. However, everyone who tried them remembers their taste with nostalgia. The communist era in Poland saw a renaissance of this sweet delicacy, but its origins date back centuries earlier. Staying local to Gdansk, worth mentioning two recipes for wafer rolls from The Gdansk Cookbook by Maria Rosnack, published in 1858. The recipe instructs making a simple dough, frying it in large, cast-iron waffle tongs heated over a fire, and rolling the wafers into tubes around wooden sticks while still hot. This was no easy feat, and many who tried to prepare it themselves likely ended up with burned fingers in the process.
After cooling, the rolls were filled with whipped cream and served. These rolls likely tasted a bit different from today’s version, as the dough was spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, and lemon zest. However, the oldest Polish recipe for cream-filled rolls predates Gdansk's version by two centuries. It comes from Compendium Ferculorum by Stanisław Czerniecki, published in 1682, considered the first Polish cookbook. But 17th-century culinary nomenclature can be misleading, and without a keen eye, no one would guess that the "method for making ulipki" refers to this treat. The preparation of these ulipki is summarized in just three sentences—far from reflecting the effort required to make them. The recipe concludes with instructions to serve "pocukrowawszy" (with sugar) or "z pianą" (with whipped cream). In simpler terms: bake the rolled wafers and serve them dusted with sugar or filled with whipped cream.
With this modern interpretation, there’s no doubt what the recipe describes. The beloved sweet treats from the legendary Długi Targ stand are more than just nostalgic memories—they’re a part of a culinary history.
Learn how to make traditional cream for Gdansk’s wafer rolls in the Smaki Gdanska vlog.